Opera, Manaus-Style

The XIV Amazonas Festival de Opera has officially finished!!! We played our last opera of the season, Lo Schiavo by J. Carlos Gomes, last Sunday, and it was done true Manaus-style... which means it was a big ol' production! 

Just like the huge show at Christmas, there were hundreds of people involved in this production. The orchestra played inside the Teatro Amazonas on stage with the full chorus behind us. Maestro Malheiro conducted us live while huge monitors of him outside the theater led the singers. There were also gigantic screens set-up outside to show the main action on stage with portuguese sub-titles. The entire side of the theater, and then some, was used as a stage for the singers, dancers, actors, children, and animals, and there were chairs throughout the whole area for the crowd.  

Jay came to see the opera and did a good job documenting it with pictures....

You can see the festive atmosphere before we started, 

complete with cotton candy!

The stage is lined in red and one of those monitors faces 

the singers (the conductor) and one faces the public.

A cool part of the opera with fireworks 

on top of the Teatro.

Lots of actors portraying the natives on stage 

while others climb the sides of the Teatro.

Normally the orchestra is stuck in the pit and has no idea or view of what the singers are doing on stage. Fortunately for us this time, they brought in a big flat-screen tv for us to see the action. It was actually kind of distracting because it was hard to focus on the conductor when there was a tv a few feet beside him, but it was nice to know what was happening in the opera. It was especially funny to watch the reaction of one of the lead singers singing an aria while riding a horse who preferred to trot instead of walk at that moment. He continued to sing perfectly, but I can only imagine what must have been going through his mind! 

Jay and I both walked away from this performance amazed that a city in the middle of the Amazon can produce such a large-scale, well-made production, and I am grateful to have been a part of it! But even more grateful to know we are done with operas for another year :) 

Boat Trippin'

We had a great time on our most recent outing on the Rio Negro with our friends. My girl Debora's family was visiting from out of town, so she planned a boat trip to give them a look at the good life in Manaus! We all shared the cost to rent a big, 2-story boat and set out on our river adventure early in the morning on Saturday. 

Our boat at the port- it's the one on the far left

One of the best ways to cruise the river is definitely laying in a hammock. Our hammock unfortunately was not cooperating very well and flipped over when I tried to sit in it! It happened so fast, but was traumatizing nonetheless. Not to mention painful landing on my head, shoulder, and knee. Since everyone put up their own hammocks on the boat, I used theirs and left Jay to use ours at his own risk! 

Relaxin

Our first destination was Encontro das Aguas, aka Meeting of the Waters, where our two rivers, Rio Negro and Rio Solimoes run side by side without mixing due to their differing densities. We've already been there several times, but this time was very special because we got to see dolphins jumpin through the water! I'm not sure why, but these fresh water dolphins hang around this area and though we've thought we'd seen them swimming before, this time it was unquestionable. They were too fast to catch in a picture, but there were several swimming and jumpin together. It was soooo cool!

You can see the 2 rivers behind us (black and brown)

The next stop was Vitoria Regia, another spot we've been to numerous times. Last time we went the river was very low, so the lily pads were basically non-existent. This time the river was very high and we got to see some huge ones. On our way back from seeing them and this very tranquil part of the river, I stopped for a bit to look up into the trees surrounding us. To my pleasant surprise, I spotted a monkey jumping through the branches overhead! We went on to spot 3 or 4 different little monkeys hopping between the trees. It was too hard to get a clear picture of them cause the trees were so dense, but I know I will always remember them and now I can check seeing monkeys in the wild off my to-do list :)

Very calming and peaceful

We also stopped along the river to see some huge 3 feet long fish in an enclosed tank. People paid $5R to feed them small fish on a pole. It was like fishing except that there was no hook on the pole, and the point was to see the huge fish struggling to get the bait. Actually it turned out being the people fishing who really struggled the most and was quite amusing to see Debora's 80 year old grandma fighting to keep her bait away from them. Jay and I stuck to taking pics and laughing at everyone until the fish got either too bored or full to care anymore...

Debora in action

We finished up the trip by cruising by the new bridge that is being constructed across the river. There are  a lot of new public works happening around town thanks to the fact that the World Cup is coming to Manaus in 2014, and they are very fast with their construction here. 

As we headed back to the port, it started to rain a bit and was quite windy, so we got to experience the very rare treat of being cold. Everyone had such a good time, and we vowed to make this a more usual occurrence now that the orchestra season is coming to an end. I'll keep you posted! 

The Blues

Sometimes it's hard to believe what a small world we live in. A couple weeks back, Jay and I had the pleasure of meeting the members of Eli Yamin's Blues Band. They are currently doing a tour, presenting workshops and concerts, through parts of South America on a grant from Lincoln Center. We heard about the concerts through a friend of ours that works at the school where they performed, which happens to be one of the most reputable English schools in Manaus and only one block from our house.

Anyway, we went to a workshop the first day they were here and really enjoyed the experience. The band is comprised of a pianist/singer- Eli Yamin, singer- Kate McGarry, drummer-LeFrae Sic, and tuba-Bob Stewart. All of them are amazing musicians and gave a very thoughtful workshop that explored the roots and rhythms of blues. Kids and adults alike really seemed to have a good time listening and learning. I was so inspired that I came home singing my own blues (a happy blues, that is)!  

After the workshop, Jay and I introduced ourselves to the band and soon discovered that we used to live in the same neighborhood as them in NYC! It was fun to talk to some American musicians, especially such cool ones from our old hood, and we found out that we even have some mutual friends there. Never thought we'd end up in Manaus hangin with New Yorkers!

When they found out that Jay plays, they invited him to join them the next night at their concert. I wish I could've gone to hear them play, but I had my own concert that night. I heard from other friends that Jay got a standing ovation from the crowd, and I know he had a great time jammin. I unfortunately don't have any action shots, but here's some from after the concert.

Jay and the world-renowned tubist, Bob Stewart

Us with the amazing drummer, LeFrae

I highly recommend checking out this band cause they are the real deal! 

State of Mind

It's official... Jay and I will be heading back to the states this summer for vacation!!!!! We bought our tickets and cannot stop thinking about what we're going to do there, eat there, buy there. But buying them a few weeks ago has certainly taught me a valuable lesson: Do not purchase tickets so early. 

The strong desire to get back to the states has basically been in the back of our minds starting the day we bought them, despite the fact that we still have more than a month to wait, and it makes life here a little more difficult. Not that we are unhappy now, just that the anticipation of all the good things to come is hard to avoid. And by good things to come, I mean..... clean & maintained streets with predetermined lanes, no stray & mangy dogs/cats, cheap Chinese & Mexican food, pedestrians with the right of way, sidewalks that accommodate 2 people side by side, clothes that last longer than a few months, using a cell phone & iPod in public w/out fear it will be stolen, not seeing ants on or near my food everyday, cafes that sell iced coffee. 

Seriously, I did not start daydreaming of walking down an immaculate sidewalk with an iced coffee in one hand while talking on my cell phone until we had a date set to leave. I guess the grass is always greener, right? (And better maintained).

A Kiwi Comes to Manaus

I've been meaning to update the blog for the past couple of weeks, but this last week has been one of those 'if it's not one thing, it's another' type of weeks. Just to name a few of those things- we can't use our front door at this point since the lock is completely stuck, my gym membership is all messed up thanks to some one's ineptitude, and our oven does not work. But we do have internet at home, slow but working, and there is still an abundance of sunshine and suco (juice) to brighten anyone's day down here. 

Oh, and we made a new friend recently! One of the highlights from a couple week ago for us was hosting a genuine Kiwi at our place. The former "friend of a friend of a friend," Alex, is now officially just a "friend." He is doing a 2 month trip through Brasil and passed through Manaus a couple weeks ago to check out the Amazon forest and river. After his former plans to crash at someone else's place fell through, he came to stay with us for a few days, and it was a very educational and fun time for all of us. It was educational because we never knew anyone from New Zealand before, and we had all sorts of questions for him about his life there. It was fun because we all turned out having a lot in common and felt a quick connection despite barely knowing each other. 

One of the nights he was here, we took him to experience the joy of unlimited pizza and then went out to hear some live Brazilian music with our friends. Next door to the bar was a dance club, and since Alex and I were in the mood to dance, we all went. It was quite memorable since it turned out to be packed with mostly guys, and Alex is like 2 feet taller than all of them, so he really stuck out! Jay kept his back to a wall, and I danced in front of him the whole time to keep away the dudes!!! hehe

Jay and Alex representin' at the bar

Alex in the mix

The following day was a birthday party for a friend of ours, and we took Alex to our typical Sunday afternoon hang on our friends' rooftop. It was really nice cause the birthday girl's hubby made feijoada (black bean stew with pork parts) and fixins for lunch and brigadeiro for dessert. It was soooo delicious, and gave our Kiwi a traditional Sunday meal in Brasil. It ended up being a really hot day, so the guys took advantage of the pool on the roof and cooled off between lunch and dessert. 

Alex doing his famous cannonball off the ledge

Amor

We had a great time with our English-speaking, sports-loving, good-music-listening buddy and were sorry to see him go. Now that we've had our first successful house guest though, we are ready and waiting for you! ;)

Quick Update

Our internet has not been working lately, so I haven't been able to update everyone on our goings on around here. Desculpe (sorry)!
But I am going to take advantage of this quick opportunity, courtesy of a very gracious neighbor, to write a little sumpin sumpin....
In the last blog, I told you about Jay's first Muay Thai test, and I am happy to report that he advanced to the next level!! I am so proud of him and happy that he has found something new he really enjoys to do. He is very dedicated to it, and let me tell you, it really shows in his super lean and muscular body!! He is looking muito bom!!
The Opera Festival continues on until the end of May, but we are finished playing Villa-Lobos' Yerma. The youth orchestra played Gounod's Romeo and Juliet last week, and I was happy to be able to actually see what's going on on the stage. It kinda sucks being stuck in the back of the pit with just a view of the maestro and the first row of the audience. I had to see the opera in two installments cause Jay was not interested in staying after intermission for the second half, so I went back another day and left him at home. I can't really blame him, as the opera is 4 hours long!!! They did a great job though, and we were both impressed with the scale of things. They do not hold anything back when it comes to production here, and it's very evident in the performances. I would post some pics, but it takes forever, so I will do that another time.
We also had a great time the other night at our American friend Summer's Mexican Dinner party. It was the three of us Americans, several Brazilians, and a new friend from New Zealand passing through Manaus this week. Brazilians, and New Zealanders as it turns out, do not have much of an idea of what Mexican food is, so it was a new experience for the other people involved. We made homemade tortillas and refried beans (no canned beans here!), and Summer even made some sour cream from yogurt. Everything tasted amazing, and it was lots of fun hanging out with them.

Our delicious Mexican creations

Speaking of Mexican food, Happy Cinco de Mayo tomorrow to you all!!! Or as we say around our house, Happy Cinco de Jayo!!!!! :)

Big Night

Last night was a big night around these parts cause Jay had his first test for Muay Thai and the XIV Festival Amazonas de Opera had its opening night. 

Jay joined a nearby Muay Thai studio almost 2 months ago with a friend, and while that friend has stopped showing up, Jay has gone religiously almost everyday since he started. For those of us that have no idea what Muay Thai is, it's basically a form of self-defense that involves kicking and hitting your opponents while blocking yourself, but there is no rolling around on the ground with other sweaty dudes. That would just be gross, especially here in this already hot and humid city!

Anyway, I am still shocked at how intense the classes are and how many bruises my man comes home with. He's had huge bruises on both sides of his chest from being punched, on his stomach from being hit repeatedly by the teacher, and on the sides of his legs from being kicked repeatedly. Sounds like a good time, right?! Well, he really seems to be liking it and has gotten into incredibly good shape from all the jumping-jacks, running, push-ups, sit-ups, and of course all the hitting/kicking. 

Champions Factory- his whole studio

His professor (tattooed one) talking to the guys

Best pic I could get of him.

I had to leave for my concert before they actually started the test part, but it went well from what Jay said. They had to do some combinations that the judges called out and spar with several partners. Luckily he came home feeling good and has a couple days off to recover before he has to get back to it. 

I, on the other hand, only have today off to recover from our more than 3 hour long opera premiere last night. We have been rehearsing this opera, Yerma by Heitor Villa-Lobos, for a couple months now, but just added in the singers, dancers, and soloists a couple weeks ago. Because it is a difficult opera with hard singing roles and lots of people involved, including dancers and a children's choir, every one was quite relieved that we pulled it off last night. We have another performance tomorrow night of it, and several other operas starting later in April and May. If you are interested in seeing all of the programming for this year's festival, you can check-it out here.... http://www.amazonasfestivalopera.com/programacao.htm

After the concert outside the Teatro Amazonas